bookcase ready for shellac.......

I met my goal of getting the woodworking on the bookcase done today. I didn't have any more mind farts and the woodworking was complete before the Patriots kickoff. I may have to make a twin for it as I have enough books between myself and my wife to fill two. But I don't have any more real estate for a second one to find a home. It looks like this will be the finale for me for 2015. I may start another project but I doubt that I'll finish it before the curtain raises on 2016.

quiet work

This is the drawer bottom. I just got done flattening this side and I am checking it for any twist. The far right corner is high. This side will the seen in the drawer and it is my reference for planing it to thickness.

I was surprised by this

The board is a 64th off from here to the other end.  I was expecting a lot worse.

thick shavings

I have about 3/32" to take off so I went with a heavy set to the iron. It takes a little bit more to push by it's quicker getting to depth. If I had more than one of these to do, I wouldn't be hogging this much off.

almost down to the scribe lines

The #6 scrubbed most of the waste, followed by smoothing with the bevel up jack, and the final passes to scribe lines with the #7.

the #3 removed the plane tracks from the #7

barely see the scribe line

The board is flat on this side - I checked it with my straight edge. This is the bottom and I'll be beveling this edge so there isn't any need to be anal and plane down to it.

flushing the filler strip with a chisel

ready to glue in the front slip

What I did wrong yesterday was plowing the groove bottom flush with the bottom of the side. The bottom of the groove should have been where the top of it was.

left side slip

The grooves are off just a bit. I adjusted it so it aligned with the front slip and glued it in place. I had to do the same on the right side. I had planed the bottom of the side slips (but not the front one) and I think that is why they were off a bit.

glued and cooking

made a gauge stick

This has the side to side and front to back sizes of the drawer bottom. While this was cooking, I sized  the drawer bottom with it.

pretty good off the saw

I don't like sawing with a cross cut panel saw. This saw is not as fast cutting but it leaves a much cleaner exit cut.  I already squared the other end up and I wanted to see how well I could saw square. I was off a couple inches on the near corner. A few swipes with a block plane and I had it dead nuts square.
 

better than sliced white bread

Making this drawer to hold my bench hooks has got to be in the top 3 best things I have done in the shop. I always know where they are now. Before I did this they could be on any horizontal surface in the shop hidden and buried under piles of crappola.

it worked

This board is only 1/2" thick and there weren't any problems with using this rip carcass saw to make this cut. I can also track dead on my scribe line with this saw. Didn't get a square cut but I split the line end to end.

bevels are done

I used a scrap piece of the drawer slip to check my progress. Once I was able to seat it and move it freely along the entire length, I was done.

right corner is high

The bench was clear so I thought I would check it. This one corner is barely one hair high and it's the only spot on the bench that is off. I haven't had any problems with flattening anything so I'm going to leave this.

it's too wide

a few swipes with the block plane

After I got the fit I set it aside and went and ran some errands. I was really tempted to take the clamps off and try and fit this. It needed more time to set up before I did that.

glove fit (almost 2 hours later)

I had to trim and shave here and there a couple of times but I finally got it to slide down and seat.

inside glamour shot

I'm leaving it

The back of  the drawer is shy of the back of the carcass so this overhang won't interfere with anything. It will help anyone who may have to replace or fix this by giving them a grab point.

I'm gluing the middle 3 inches at the front

back detail

I made the slot the width of the screw and it will allow for about a 1/4" of movement which should be more than enough for this.

I like this look

I think this looks good without any knobs or handles. I am going to put a cove cut on the bottom inside as a grab point.

under hang don't need cove cut

This is how much the drawer hangs down beneath the front drawer rail. I already tried it several times and I had no issues with opening the drawer.

drawer stop

The front drawer rail is my closing stop and this one is my opening stop. This shallow dado is for the screw head on the back of the drawer.

opening drawer stop

This is what I came up with for an opening drawer stop. It will be inconvenient and possibly a PITA because in order to take the drawer out this will have to be removed. I thought of making a notch in the back of the drawer and putting a spinner on the bottom of the top but I nixed that. I couldn't think of anyway to keep the spinner in the closed position that I liked. How often do you remove a drawer  anyways?

it works

The drawer is out and I can see and reach the back of the drawer.  Checking the operation of it is  done. I had to remove it so I can sand and shellac the drawer.

branded underside of the top

branded the back of the drawer too

ready for shellac

I planed and scraped everything yesterday. Today I used a half of a sheet of 220 grit and sanded the entire bookcase.

forgot to fix the missing corner

I sawed a 45 off of one corner to use as my plug.

need to shave it a bit

dry fit is good

done

I didn't think to try and get a grain match with this. I was concentrating on filling the hole so when the drawer was opened you wouldn't see it.

I won't bore you with the finishing pics. The next shots will be the glamour ones of it done.

accidental woodworker

trivia corner
How old was Joan of Arc when she was burned at the stake?
answer - the Maid of Orleans was only 19 years old

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